How to Set a Stone

For the novice, I have provided definitions of some words you may be unfamiliar with. After reading the definition, merely hit the back button to return to the main page.

• Bezel Setting
1. What is a Bezel?
2. Setting a stone in a bezel
• Bezel Cups
• Prong Setting
1. What are Prongs?
2. How to Create a Simple Prong Setting
• Conclusions
• References and Links
• About this Page

Bezel Setting

Box Bezel	Collar Bezel
Photo date 4/04 © by Shannon Gering A box type bezel with fancy bezel wire is the most common type and simplest to make. This was made by Kari Taylor.	© by Davis Publishing Image taken from The Complete Metalsmith. This example is similar to a box bezel but with a rounded wall.

Fancy Bezel	Step Bezel
Photo date 4/04 © by Shannon Gering A decorative bezel may be purchased gallery wire or hand fabricated. This example was made by John Morrison	© by Davis Publishing Image taken from The Complete Metalsmith This style allows light to shine through the stone without drilling a hole in the metal.

Photo Date 4/04 © by Shannon Gering This design was made by Rebecca Voth and hand fabricated out of silver wire.

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1. The first step is to fit the bezel wire to the stone. Push the bezel wire against the stone using a pencil eraser. Push the longer end of the wire away from the shorter end and push the shorter end against the stone. Don't push too hard or you might fracture the stone. McCreight stated that for smaller stones the bezel should be shaped first and then fitted to the stone. However, in my limited experience, I have found that shaping the bezel around the small stones works fine.

Photo date 4/04 © by Mary St. John

2. After fitting, cut off the excess wire with tin snips and file the ends of the bezel wire to clean them up. Flux the edges and join them together using hard solder.
3. It's a good idea to double check the fit of the bezel on the stone. If the wire is too tall for the stone it can be filed down to the right height.
4. Okay, now it's time to attach the bezel to either a piece of metal backing or the jewelry piece itself. If the stone is translucent enough to allow light through, a hole needs to be drilled in the back of the jewelry piece or a step bezel needs to be made. I have learned from experience that it's better to drill the holes BEFORE bending the metal.

Photo date 4/04 © by Shannon Gering

5. Attach the bezel to the base using small pieces of hard solder. Because of the large amount of stress that will be applied to the metal hard solder must be applied to bezels and prongs. Apply the blue flame of the torch around and on the joint. The solder MUST melt all the way around the bezel. If there are any gaps they need to be filled in with easy solder. It is important to take care when heating the metal during this step as the fine silver of the bezel wire heats faster than sterling and has a tendency to melt.
6. Pickle the piece then file away any excess solder with a rifle file.
7. If making a box type bezel, the excess metal around the base needs to be sawn off with a jewelry saw. File the edges of the base smooth. If it is going to be added to a piece, cover the new and previous joins in yellow ocher before soldering.
8. Now to insert the stone. Mix a paste of jewelers sawdust with epoxy. Jewelers sawdust is an extremely clean finely ground wood shavings. Using a toothpick apply a semi-thin layer of paste to the inside bottom of the bezel. This will cushion the stone so if the jewelry is bumped or dropped the stone will not bang against the metal backing and will be less likely to chip or crack. The epoxy also adds extra gripping power to the stone. Be sure to get the stone in right the FIRST time as cleaning epoxy off of stone is tedious.
9. When the epoxy is dried gently press the metal towards the stone with the rounded point of the burnishing tool. For stones with a Mohs Scale hardness of less than seven it is a good idea to cover the stone with a piece of masking tape to prevent accidental scratching. Be sure to work opposite ends of the stone and NEVER put TOO MUCH PRESSURE on the bezel as the stone could chip or crack.

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Bezel Cups

Bezel cups similar to regular bezels in their use. The difference is that bezel cups are prefabricated and the bottom is a seamless whole with the bezel. Bezel cups seem to be made mostly for smaller stones. Setting a stone in a bezel cup is somewhat like setting it in an ordinary bezel only much less work. They can be bought at a local lapidary or jeweler supply store. I do not enjoy using them because if the stone doesn't fit just right then the stone must be sanded down.

Photo date 4/04 © by Mary St. John	Photo date 4/04 © by Shannon Gering
The bezel cup is shown on the left, while a stone set in a bezel cup is on the right. Click on the right image to see the cat designed and fabricated by Shannon Gering.

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Prong Settings

• be long enough to reach over the girdle of the stone and hold it securely
• prevent the stone from slipping out of the setting in any direction
• not cover too much of the stone, it's the stone that's on display not the prongs
• not snag or catch on fabric or skin

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1. First the bearing piece is created using either tubing or rectangular wire. The gauge of the wire will depend on the size of the stone. The bearing is shaped into a loop with pliers. It should be slightly smaller in size than the stone so that when the stone rests upon it, the bearing can't be seen when looking straight down at it. Cut the loop with tin snips and file the ends. Flux the ends and join with hard solder.
2. The size of the stone determines the number, size and placement of the prongs. Usually four prongs are used but there can be any number of prongs such as six, eight or twelve! Prongs can be made out of either round, half round or rectangular wire.
3. Cut the prongs a bit longer than the required length. Using the pliers force the prongs against the bearing and push them slightly into the charcoal block. This will prevent them from moving while soldering. Flux the joints and solder with hard solder.

© by Bovin. Image taken from Jewelry Making

4. Remove the setting from the block and pickle. Then snip off the excess wire at the bottom of the bearing and file flat.

© by Bovin. Image taken from Jewelry Making. A simple prong setting.

5. Snip the prongs to the desired length and file the ends. The setting is now ready to be joined to the jewelry piece, polished and finally set the stone.
6. Drop the stone into the setting. Gently push the prongs against the stone using the rounded end of a burnishing tool. Work opposite ends and be careful not to push too hard as it will move the stone or cause it to chip or crack.

© by Bovin. Image taken from Jewelry Making. Stone set in prongs.

Conclusions

References and Links

Aber, S.W. 1999-2004. Working With Silver. GO 340 Course Lecture. World Wide Web URL: http://www.emporia.edu/earthsci/amber/go340/silver.htm

Antique Jewelry Mall. 2004. World Wide Web homepage URL: http://www.antiquejewelrymall.com.

Bovin, Murray. 1967. Jewelry Making For School, Tradesmen Craftsmen. Bovin Pub, NY, 100 p.

Clark, Donald. The Nomenclature of Jewelry or "What Do You Call That Thingy?".
International Gem Society. World Wide Web URL: http://www.gemsociety.org/info/j14.htm.

Maxwell, Deb. 2004. Metals I Vocabulary. Emporia, KS, 1-5.

McCreight, Tim. 1991. The Complete Metalsmith. Davis Inc, Massachusetts, 123-4, 119-121.

Check Out These Cool Webpages

International Gem Society at www.gemsociety.org

MAB Diamonds - An Overview of Prong Settings and Problem Shooting
www.mabdiamonds.com